Scented Essentials: How to Make Soap

(Page 2 of 2)

October/November 1995
By Sandy Maine 
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• Pour the coconut oil and vegetable shortening into the kettle and melt over low heat, stirring frequently with the other wooden spoon. Remove the kettle from the heat and add 24 ounces of olive oil.

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• Keep your gloves on. Stir both mixtures separately, then measure their temperature with the thermometer. Both mixtures need to be between 95° and 98°F, so prepare cold- or hot-water baths as needed by putting an inch or two of cold or hot water in the sink and placing the containers in the water. When both are within the desired temperature range, pour a steady stream of lye mixture into the oil mixture, stirring constantly. Continue to stir for about 10 minutes, or until the soap becomes slightly thicker and creamier. Add any dried botanicals or colorants now, working quickly so that the mixture doesn’t become too thick. To do so, pour into another container about 2 cups of the soap mixture and whisk in the dried materials until thoroughly mixed, then promptly return this mixture to the soap kettle and stir. Stir in the scented oils.

• Pour the mixture into the plastic mold and put the lid on it. Set it in a warm, out-of-the-way place and cover it well with many layers of blankets. Allow the mixture to sit undisturbed for 18 hours to finish turning to soap.

• Remove the blankets and lid. You should now have a beautiful block of soap—firm, fresh, and fragrant. Allow it to sit uncovered 8 to 12 hours longer, then turn the box upside down and allow the soap to fall onto a towel or clean work surface. If the soap has separated, you will see a thin layer of oil on the top and a crusty, chalky layer on the bottom; these layers can be scraped off and discarded in the garbage or flushed down the toilet.

• When you’re ready, cut your fresh soap into slices, bars, or chunks, or leave it as it is and cut bars out of the large block as needed. If you wish to form or stamp them in any way, do this within a few days, then let the bars air-dry for 2 to 3 weeks.

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  • Cindy Chandler 10/21/2008 8:21:05 AM

    I enjoyed your article on herbal soapmaking. Being a soapmaker for 10 years myself, I can honestly say, there is nothing like handcrafted soap. Once you try it, you'll never purchase any in the store again. I do have to disagree with using wooden utinsels. The lye will eventually eat through those as well. I use either stainless steel or rigid plastic utinsels in my soapmaking. I also only use ones that I don't cook with. The herbs can be added to the soaps, or infused in the oils that are used. I prefer to infuse my oils with the herbs. Sometimes I will powder the herbs and add some to my soaps as well. There is no end to the possibilities that you have at your fingertips to use herbs in your life. Thanks for another great article!

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