Fresh for the Pesto Garden
Herbal harvest adds exciting taste to culinary paste.
June/July 2003
By Kris Wetherbee
One of the greatest culinary pleasures of
summer is pesto, an uncooked herb paste with an enticing aroma and
unmistakable flavor. Genoa, Italy, is credited with the creation of
classic basil pesto, and the French gave it a twist with tomatoes
and called it “pistou.” A regional favorite in Southern Italy adds
chiles to the mix of sun-dried tomatoes and basil for a specialty
red pesto called “pesto rosso.”
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Since its Italian beginnings, pesto has evolved along the way
from a traditional paste of fresh basil to a myriad of variations
made with aromatic herbs such as summer savory, arugula, rosemary,
parsley and mint. Pesto can also be pumped up with cream cheese,
sour cream, tofu or other ingredients. As long as it’s an uncooked
herb paste made with fresh ingredients, it’s pesto.
Choosing ingredients
At its essence, pesto is composed of five basic ingredients:
fresh herbs, nuts, garlic, cheese and oil. Basil is exceptional,
but other herbs also make great-tasting pesto — chives, cilantro,
Italian parsley, rosemary, marjoram and sweet oregano, as well as
arugula, chervil, fennel, mint, sage, sorrel, summer savory, thyme
and tarragon. Experiment with different herbs and herb combinations
to influence the overall character and flavor of the pesto.
Sometimes strong herbs such as sage and thyme mellow when combined
with basil or parsley.
Though pesto is traditionally made with pine nuts — a high-fat
nut found in pinecones — other nuts can be used to highlight the
herb you have chosen. Try walnuts or buttery-rich pecans for a
slightly more intense flavor. For a sweeter, more delicate taste,
almonds and cashews are a tasty addition.
Cheese, garlic and oil may seem like minor players, but the
quality and type you choose can have a major influence on the pesto
you make.
• Most any dry, sharp cheese will work fine, but freshly grated
Parmesan, Romano and pecorino (made from sheep’s milk) are superb
choices.
• When it comes to garlic, skip the dried powder or granules and
stick with fresh. You can grow many varieties of fresh garlic or
buy it at your local farmers’ market. Some are spicier than others,
so experiment.
• Extra-virgin olive oil is considered by many to be the best
oil for making pesto. Whether using olive oil or substituting
another oil such as walnut, use the best-quality oil you can
find.
Planning the garden
Store-bought pesto can be good, but homemade pesto is
sensational. And when you make pesto with fresh herbs grown and
harvested from your own garden, you’ll experience pesto perfection.
You can grow your own pesto herbs in an area as small as 16 square
feet. That’s enough space to grow the following herbs: eight basil,
one upright rosemary, two parsley, two sweet oregano, four summer
savory and one chive plant. Short on garden space? Enliven your
deck or patio with a grouping of container-grown herbs for culinary
accents that are always right at hand.
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