Get Egg-static with Herbs

Image Gallery Susan Belsinger

Does it really matter which came first, the chicken or the egg? Without either, we wouldn’t have the soufflé, omelet, quiche, mayonnaise, béarnaise, egg-drop soup, pasta carbonara, angel food cake and many other delicious creations.

Eggs combine well with almost any culinary herb. Whether simply scrambled or mixed into batters or fillings, eggs have the ability to capture and retain the flavor of the herbs and spices or vegetables and fruits with which they are cooked. Because of their mild flavor, eggs adapt easily to many different flavors and cooking methods. Their versatility invites creativity not only through form but also through flavor.

Although their shells might be fragile, eggs form a foundation for cookery around the world. Put on your reading glasses and allow me to introduce you to eggs in a variety of dishes influenced by the cooking of many countries: a mouthwatering Italian-style frittata with spring vegetables and herbs; my version of chilaquiles (a traditional Mexican dish made from pieces of fried tortilla smothered in green or red salsa or mole); all-American favorites like fried egg sandwiches and deviled eggs; and a decadent chocolate espresso soufflé.

Lucie’s Deviled Eggs

Makes 24 deviled egg halves

Our family loves deviled eggs—our gatherings just aren’t complete without them. My grandmother used to make this dish for our get-togethers, but now my daughter, Lucie, has taken over as designated deviled egg chef. We vary the recipe depending on the season—in summer we add fresh tarragon or a tablespoon of fresh minced basil.

12 extra-large eggs, hard-cooked, halved lengthwise, yolks removed
About 4 tablespoons mayonnaise
1  teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
1½ tablespoons finely snipped chives or dill
1  tablespoon chopped sweet pickles
1  tablespoon pickle juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Paprika
12 chive or dill sprigs (optional)

To prepare filling, mash yolks in a small bowl with a fork. Add mayonnaise, mustard, chives, pickles, pickle juice, salt and pepper. Blend well. Divide filling among egg halves. Sprinkle each half lightly with paprika and garnish with a small chive or dill sprig, if desired. Serve immediately or cover and chill. Serve slightly chilled.

Egg Salad with Nasturtiums and Chives

Makes 6 servings

For a beautiful presentation, serve this on a plate lined with nasturtium leaves, garnished with whole flowers, fresh snipped chives and/or dill sprigs. A fresh loaf of crusty, country-style bread is the best accompaniment; however rye or pumpernickel bread, pitas or thinly sliced bagels are good, too.