Have a Sweet Adventure
(Page 7 of 8)
February/March 2006
By Susan Belsinger
HERBS THAT PLAY WELL WITH DESSERTS
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Angelica. These stems have a slightly woody, bitter, resinous flavor with a hint of fruit, and usually are candied for a garnish to decorate desserts; the aromatic leaves are good chopped for fruit salads, with citrus and rhubarb.
Basil. Lemon and cinnamon basil add a citrus or cinnamon flavor to summer fruit salads, sorbets and pear conserves. Genoa green and spice basil work well with citrus and tomato in preserves.
Bay. A fresh leaf lends citrus and balsam-like flavor with a hint of vanilla and nutmeg to custards, baked fruit and sweet bread dough with dried fruits.
Bergamot. A favorite herb for the stone fruits of summer, like apricots, peaches and plums, as well as apples and berries; this herb has a perfumey, tea-like flavor. Use in fruit salads, in stewed or poached fruit, and in making jellies or preserves. The red flower blossoms are a tasty garnish with the same perfume.
Borage. The delicate star-shaped flowers, with their clean cucumber taste, are used fresh and candied for garnishing desserts, punches and wine.
Chervil. This mild, anise-flavored herb with a hint of citrus is best used fresh with mild-flavored fruits, such as melons, apricots, plums, peaches, papaya, kiwi and fruit salads.
Coriander. The nutty and highly citrus-flavored seed is used in baked goods, with apples, bananas, pears, cherries, apricots and peaches. The cilantro leaf, which has grassy and resinous taste with a hint of citrus, goes best with citrus fruits, and complements coconut and pomegranate.
Fennel. The anise-flavored seed can be baked in fruit desserts made with apples, pears and rhubarb. The sweet, feathery leaves can be used with fresh fruit.
Geraniums. These distinct and unique leaves range in fragrance and flavor from rose and nutmeg to lemon and peppermint. They are used to flavor cakes, tarts and jellies made with apricots, every type of berry, currants and apples, and in citrus sorbets. The leaves and flowers make fragrant garnishes.
Lavender. Use only the blossoms in the kitchen — do not use the foliage of this highly perfumed, flowery herb. It goes well with raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, currants and peaches. Its flavor is more delicate when used with dairy products, such as in cream sauces, custards and ice creams.
Lemon balm and lemon verbena. Both of these highly aromatic, lemon-flavored herbs add sweet and citrus tastes to desserts. Verbena is stronger in citrus oil and therefore has more concentrated flavor than balm, so adjust accordingly in a recipe. Use in custards, pies, cakes and jellies. Chopped fresh, it is good in fruit salads, sorbets and berry fools.
Mint. There are many mints — apple, orange, pineapple, spearmint and peppermint — all culinary favorites. Choose peppermint if you want more menthol, spearmint if you prefer it sweeter, and orange mint if you want that flavor of Earl Grey tea. Mint is good with any fruit, and is a good companion to all of the berries, grapes, melons, peaches and plums. It adds a refreshing tingle to fruit salads, sorbets, pies, fools and jellies. It also works well when baked with apples and pears.
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