Herbs Jazz Up the Culinary Landscape

Piquant sauces from Pakistan to Puerto Rico enliven foods, aid digestion and even help diners keep their cool.

April/May 2006
By MADALENE HILL AND GWEN BARCLAY 
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Piquant sauces, featuring fresh or dried herbs and traditional spices, are a part of almost every cuisine in the world and include a wide range of flavors. Many Americans are familiar with pungent sauces from Mexican, Latin American and Asian cuisines, but are surprised to learn that intensely flavored sauces also were part of the cuisines of the Germans, Eastern Europeans and English long before chiles found their way to Europe.

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One reason for the worldwide commonality of piquant sauces is that sharp accompaniments serve as a foil for the rich flavors of pork, lamb, duck, goose, and wild venison and boar. They also aid with the digestion of the heavy fats of such meats. And in hot regions, such as India, Pakistan and much of the New World, hot condiments can help cool the body by promoting sweating.

Luckily for Europeans and Asians — to whom chiles weren’t an option until after the discovery of North America — hot chile peppers aren’t a requirement for piquancy in a sauce, which also can draw a sharp bite from peppercorns, fresh ginger, horseradish, mustard, garlic and many other foods. Spicy-hot and spicy-sweet ingredients combine with other herbs and spices to create memorable blends of intense flavor that transcend familiar boundaries of ethnic cuisines. We have only to taste, learn and enjoy.

FRESH HERBAL SEASONING BLEND

Makes about 11/2 cups
This seasoning blend is a variation on chimichurri, which is a seasoning concentrate that can be added to a variety of dishes. Thinned with oil and lime juice, it can be used as a basting sauce for meat dishes or as a tasty salad dressing. Or, try mixing it with sour cream or yogurt to make a piquant dipping sauce that traditionally is used in South America for fried plantains. It is also delicious with tortilla chips or veggies.

1 large poblano chile, roasted, peeled, seeds and stem removed, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 to 4 cloves garlic
1 cup firmly packed parsley leaves and tender stems
1/4 cup cilantro leaves, packed
2 tablespoons rosemary leaves
2 tablespoons oregano leaves (Yucatan or Cuban type if available)
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped orange peel, colored portion only
1 small serrano chile, seeds and stem removed
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup fresh lime juice
1/2 teaspoon salt

Combine all ingredients in a food processor or blender; process until smooth. Flavor is best if prepared at least 24 hours ahead, particularly if using uncooked. Store in refrigerator. Do not freeze.

SAUCES AROUND THE WORLD

Nearly all piquant sauces around the world feature the diverse flavors of the herbs local to the area where they are created. Everyone knows about Italian basil pesto, with its healthy dose of garlic, but countless other combinations feature the classic herbs of the Mediterranean.

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