April/May 2002
By SHARON NIEDERMAN
(Southwestern endangered arid land resources
clearinghouse)
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NOTES FROM REGIONAL HERB GARDENERS...
Sharon Niederman of Albuquerque, New Mexico, is a freelance
writer and author of several books.
Yaqui basil. Chia roja. Mt. Pima oregano.
Tarahumara anis. These herbs carry names that conjure deep
associations with native people who, for centuries, cultivated
them, cooked with them, and cured with them in the Sonoran region
of southern Arizona and northwestern Mexico. You won’t find these
seeds in packets for sale in your local nursery, but thanks to
Native Seeds/SEARCH, a Tucson-based nonprofit organization founded
in 1983, these herbs, plus other rare corns, beans, chiles, gourds,
melons, and squash, are now collected, preserved, protected, and
disseminated.
These hardy heirloom seeds are specially adapted to their
environment and remain exempt from corporate packaging; rather,
they have for generations been handed down through families and
exchanged between neighbors, small farmers, and backyard growers.
Planting seeds offered by Native Seeds/SEARCH is like caring for a
special piece of history and culture in your garden. Seedlisting,
the organization’s catalog, has pages of such biodiverse treasures
as the chiltepine, the fiery, scarlet berry that originated in
Bolivia and Ecuador and is the ancient “mother of all chiles,” and
Mexican teosinte, believed to be the tassled ancestor of corn.
Even better news for those planning travel to Tucson, Native
Seeds/SEARCH welcomes visitors to its various locations, where it
is possible to follow the life of rare heirlooms from storage in
the seed bank all the way to harvest in the field.
First stop is a tour of the seed bank at Sylvester House, where
visitors are warmly greeted with cups of herbal tea and a basket of
blueberry-Hopi blue corn muffins prior to the tour. On the grounds
of the historic adobe, in the 3/4-acre garden, lie baskets of
drying squash, pumpkins, and gourds. After a brief and informative
slide show explaining the organization’s mission and methods and a
question-and-answer period, seed curator and director of
conservation Suzanne Nelson opens the door and grants participants
entrance into the cool vault. There, in 10,000 jars that fill
floor-to-ceiling shelves, are more than 2,000 kinds of precious
seed stocks waiting their turn to be “grown out.” The jars contain
dozens of varieties of beans and corn, fifty-five varieties of
chile, many cilantros, dills, basils, oreganos, and epazote
(Chenopodium ambrosioides)—a truly awesome treasure chest of the
earth’s bountiful possibilities. Most of these seeds have been
gathered from Native American farmers and growers in small villages
of New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado, and Mexico, and from those
concerned about the survival of the seeds and the cultural heritage
that goes along with them. Tours are given weekly.
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