Vintage Herbs

Enlarge Image Image Gallery Formal terraced beds of blooming lavender create waves of purple at Matanzas Creek Winery. Photograph by Reuben Schwartz

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Recipes:

• Mesquite-Grilled Quail with Pancetta and Sage
• Kalmata Olive Herb Bread
• Chocolate Lavender Truffles 

The moist, feathery fog of early morning rolls from the ­Pacific shore north of San Francisco Bay into the hills of California wine country. When the fog lifts, the verdant beauty of this land becomes apparent—vast acres of grapevines promising future pleasures, grand spires of fir and redwood, round-topped maples, and herb gardens so fragrant and expansive they take your breath away.

“Touring and tasting” has been a popular activity for both Californians and visitors for decades. These days, the thousands of visitors who pass over the Golden Gate Bridge north into So­noma, Napa, and Mendocino Counties can enjoy not only sampling the fruits of the area’s more than 400 wineries, but also strolling through acres of ornamental and edible landscaping. More and more people are discovering the delightful affinity of herbs and wine for each other.

The temperate climate of the area is often compared to that of Provence and other regions around the Mediterranean, where so many familiar culinary herbs originated and which also has a rich history of wine making. Many plants—herbs, grapes, and olive trees in particular—thrive in both locales.

During the summer, temperatures in California wine country may reach 100°F, but vineyards on the western side of the mountain ranges that divide the area often have morning fog that helps moderate temperatures. Rainfall is rare from May through September, a condition that both grapes and Mediterranean herbs prefer. Winters are pleasant and quite mild; a few freezing nights are not uncommon, but fair days with temperatures as high as the 70s provide ideal weather for garden strolling. In the spring, frequent rain and fog provide optimal growing conditions for gardens and budding vines.

A sea of purple

When Sandra MacIver, the founder and owner of the 215-acre Matanzas Creek Winery in Sonoma County, looked at the area roughly the size of a football field in front of her visitors’ center six years ago, she envisioned a picture painted in lavender. In June, that vision is now reality, a spectacular, swaying sea of purple reminiscent of the lavender fields of Provence.

If this fragrant swath of purple transports people to the fields of southern France, it’s appropriate: Sonoma County has been dubbed the sister region of Pro­vence. The inspiration to plant lavender merely strengthened the connection. “I’m proud that Matanzas Creek, where lavender blooms side by side with the vines, is the site that illustrates the image of Pro­vence most dramatically,” MacIver says.

Two cultivars of lavender, Lavandula intermedia ‘Provence’ and L. i. ‘Grosso’ are set on 11/2 acres of terraced beds. When they are in full bloom, the parking lot overflows, and the street in front of the winery is lined with cars. As many people come to see the lavender as the winery, MacIver says. It is a favorite destination of landscapers, garden clubs, and especially artists. On a sunny day, thirty to forty artists sketching the grounds is a common sight.

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