Wading into Water Garden

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Wind. Wind cools the water surface, blows fountain spray and damages the soft, succulent stems of marginal plants. In an attempt to capture the maximum amount of sun in a small garden, the pool is often sited in the center of the lawn where it is more prone to wind exposure. Shelter can be provided by a trellis or planting on the pool’s windward side. Any artificial windbreak should be semipermeable rather than solid panels to prevent eddying and turbulence on the side away from the prevailing wind. Position the windbreak a little distance away from the pool, since the optimum effect at ground level of trellis or lath-like structures is felt at seven to ten times the height of the windbreak on the lee side.

Frost. Cold air accumulates in low-lying pockets, making plants more susceptible to browning by spring frosts. Informal ponds are often sited in low-lying areas because that is where they look more natural, making them more susceptible to frosts. Site your pond slightly higher up the dip in the land.

Sloping ground. A steep slope need not be too much of a constraint if the pond is partially dug out of the bank and partially banked up on the lower side. The outline of the pool needs to be slender and follow the contours of the slope. On land falling away from the house, build up the surround on the lower side of the pool so the pool surface can be seen more easily. If the land rises from the house, cut more into the bank side so the view is not spoiled by a high retaining wall.

Water table. The water table is the level at which water will stand in a ground hole or well. The level of the local water table rises and falls with the seasons and can be affected by large-scale building works or drainage schemes in the neighborhood. Most water tables are well below the level at which a pond will be dug, but occasionally it may be a problem on wet, heavy land. A test to check if there is a high water table can be carried out by digging a hole 2 to 3 feet deep and leaving it for a day or two to see if water appears in the hole. If water lies near the surface, there could be problems, since pond liners can billow up to the pool surface as a result of water pressure from the water table beneath.

Underground hazards. Once you have narrowed down your siting options, it is vital to ensure that a sunken pool will not be positioned over the route of underground services such as drains, gas pipes, water pipes, electricity cables and telephone cables. Before you dig, contact the appropriate utility company, which will have the equipment to pinpoint the underground line.

Fine Tuning the Site

The ideal site probably will involve some compromise. For instance, high on your list of priorities may be the ability to see the feature from a frequently used window of your home. Your choice may also be influenced by the desire to reflect any garden features such as ornaments or trees in the water. Sketching out a siting plan that identifies shade, prevailing wind direction, services and viewing lines from the windows is step one before finally taking out a garden hose to lay on the ground and outline possible sites. Lay a full-length mirror flat on the ground inside the hose to simulate the effect of the water surface, then see what reflections appear. If these are to be enjoyed from a particular window, take time making minor adjustments to the proposed position of the pond for the best view. A movement of 2 to 3 feet on the ground makes a great difference in the angle of reflection and how well the feature is framed.

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