Wading into Water Garden

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Identify the optimum site, decide how important an electricity supply is at the pool side. If a pump is vital and the distance makes this prohibitive in terms of cost, it may mean a final alteration to the site.

Excavating Techniques

When excavating in an area of lawn or rough turf, the top layer of turf should be removed first and, if space is available elsewhere in the garden, the turves stacked upside down in a neat pile. After a few months rotting down they will produce a fibrous loam, which is ideal for potting aquatic plants. The next layer, 12 to 15 inches deep, is topsoil, which also is valuable as a potting medium for aquatics or a top-dressing on the borders. This soil will prove invaluable if some slight alterations need to be made to the contours around the pool once it has been installed. The bottom layer, which is generally a different color from the topsoil, is subsoil and should be discarded unless significant changes in level are anticipated.

A mound can be created near the pool to make a base for a stream, but if on a flat site, make sure the mound doesn’t look too contrived by keeping the proportions and gradient as natural-looking as possible. The height of the mound should be no more than one-fifth of the width, with gently sloping sides.

Water Seepage

Very rarely the unforeseen problem of water seeping into the excavation occurs. This usually happens on wet, heavy land, particularly in winter. Head this problem off by checking the level of the water table on wet soil (see above). But where there is still a problem, one of the options below will remedy the situation:

• Raise the proposed level around the pond by adding extra soil.

• Move the pond site to higher ground if available.

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