Ancient Paintings and Natural Patterns
Down to Earth
June/July 2002
By JIM LONG
Illustration by Susan Chamberlain
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Not long ago, I was sitting atop an elephant
named Ria, riding up the side of a dry mountainside in the Aravali
Hills of north central India. The cobblestone pavement beneath us
dated back four centuries, to a time when Rajput kings ruled that
region.
I couldn’t help but wonder, as we lumbered along the old road,
why rich Rajput kings bothered with such land. It’s a desert with
poor soil and sparse rainfall. What little rain does come in the
winter is collected in numerous lakes such as Lake Maota, just
beneath us.
Just at the moment when I was contemplating those questions,
along with whether the elephant saddle I was on (called a houdaa)
would fall and dump me over the side of a substantial ravine, Ria
turned her pendulous trunk toward me and angrily sneezed. The
mahout, or “driver” of the elephant, used his hook, called an
ankush, to prod the elephant behind the ear reminding Ria who was
in control.
“Sorry! Very sorry,” the mahout said to me as he dug his knees
behind Ria’s ears like a cowboy goading his horse to ride on. I
couldn’t blame the elephant. The mahout hadn’t tightened the houdaa
before putting us on. It sagged to one side and the mahout told us
a couple of times to “Sit toward the middle, please.” The houdaa
continued to sag and Ria was not happy. The elephant’s way of
expressing displeasure was to sneeze a quart of, well, I’ll just
call it trunk water, all over my leg. In the dry air it evaporated
quickly.
Our trip was to tour the ancient Amber Palace on the side of a
mountain. We walked throughout the enchanting complex, looking at
the splendid architecture, the majestic gardens and exotic artwork.
Most surprising to me was the richness of botanical paintings on
the walls of the palace. The main entrances, the interior-facing
walls of the gardens, and many of the rooms were covered with
paintings of plants.
There were roses and marigolds—the official religious flowers of
India. Calendulas, mint, coriander, hyssop, coleus, artemisia,
capsicums, cinnamon, crocus, luffa, black pepper, alliums, and
yarrow were all represented. “These are all medicinal plants,” I
said to my friend and guide, Puneet.
“No, these are just decorations, although some might be
medicinal,” he replied. “They are painted with ground-up
semiprecious stones, painted into the plaster of the walls while
the plaster was still wet.” He went on to explain that the
Ayurvedic medicinal tradition in India dates back more than three
thousand years. It is based on the healing powers of hundreds of
plants used in balance with the body and spirit. Ayurvedic
practitioners study continuously both the ancient traditions and
new ones and are respected for their knowledge of treating the
entire body rather than simply treating symptoms.
My own theory is that the paintings, each measuring about 15
inches by 24 inches, are botanical paintings of the important
plants of the Empire and of Ayurvedic medicine. They were both
teaching tools for the illiterate, and symbols of protection. A
king would naturally have yarrow, one of the most important
blood-stopping plants known in the ancient world, painted near the
entrance of his palace. It would be a symbol of his protection by
his doctors and it would signify the importance of that plant in
such an arid region.