parsley
More than a Frill
June/July 1996
By CORNELIA CARLSON
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Glossy green parsley—make it a daily habit! Both curly and Italian flat-leaved parsleys are staples in the kitchen.
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WHEN JUDGED against other herbs’ heady flavors,
parsley’s seems pallid indeed. Lacking basil’s sweet fragrance,
pepper’s fire, mint’s cool finesse, or rosemary’s piney bite,
parsley’s taste has been described as grassy, vegetal, or
green—more inspiring to cows perhaps than to cooks. Yet parsley’s
mild, herbaceous flavor is just what makes it so useful. What other
herb could play these diverse roles:
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• Background flavoring. A few sprigs added to any soup, stew, or
other water-based dish will enrich its flavor and add an elusive
herbal bass note. This is parsley’s role in the French bouquet
garni.
• Finishing touch. For a clean, finished flavor and colorful
contrast, sprinkle noodles, vegetables, or potatoes with flecks of
fresh parsley just as you would use black pepper.
• Liaison. Parsley’s mellow taste can link the flavors of two or
more other, strongly flavored herbs or harmonize the flavors of
disparate ingredients that might otherwise clash.
• Pseudovegetable. A cup of minced parsley leaves tossed with an
equivalent amount of soft grains adds nutrients as well as enticing
taste, or call it a green and heap it into salads with lettuces and
other greens.
• Flavor extender or diluent. These roles differ in intent, but
both combine mild parsley with an assertive herb. For example, when
your basil supply is meager, you can extend your pesto with
parsley, or use it to dilute and tame a harsher herb such as
cilantro.
• Garnish. No herb is prettier than curly-leaved parsley.
Parsley is among only a handful of fresh herbs available year
round in virtually any supermarket. If its versatility and
convenience don’t persuade you to make parsley a daily habit,
consider that it has enough chlorophyll to quench the sulfurous
fumes of garlic breath and is packed with health benefits.
A potent herb
Parsley’s vitamin C concentration is among the highest of any
food—roughly 125 to 300 milligrams per 100 grams, which is a little
less than an average bunch. (Nutritionists recommend taking 60
milligrams of vitamin C daily.) It’s also a rich source of iron,
calcium, lutein, and beta-carotene (a form of vitamin A). The
latter two compounds are antioxidants, which have been linked with
slowing cellular aging and the development of tumors. At least two
other compounds—chlorophyll and myristicin—may also inhibit the
development of some cancers.
Nevertheless, there are caveats to eating large quantities of
this herb. Although parsley is high in calcium, its substantial
concentration of oxalates—about half that found in spinach—bind
calcium, making it inaccessible to the body. People with
osteoporosis thus might do well to limit their intake of parsley
and other foods high in oxalates. Anyone with kidney disease should
probably avoid large quantities, as parsley can irritate the
kidneys.
Women of childbearing age should also be aware that another
component, apiol, and perhaps myristicin as well, have been shown
to stimulate uterine contractions. If you are pregnant or think you
might be, it would be prudent to restrict your daily parsley
consumption to a leaf or two and pass up cups of parsley-laden
tabbouleh (see recipe on page 46).
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