Cinnamon Desserts

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Through History

The Book of Exodus names both cassia and cinnamon as ingredients of an ointment, although scholars disagree as to which species were meant. C. cassia is mentioned in a Chinese herbal dating from about 2700 b.c., and trade had been established with the Middle East by the time Exodus was written. The Egyptians clearly used some type of cinnamon from a very early date: temple inscriptions indicate that Queen Hatshepsut sent an expedition to Punt (modern Somalia) in search of cinnamon about 1500 b.c. Some linguists suggest that the biblical cinnamon came from wild Indonesian plants, tracing our modern word back through the Latin cinnamomum, Greek kinnamon, and Hebrew/Phoenician guinnamon to the Malay kayu manis (“sweet wood”).

Cinnamon was first used primarily in medicine, perfumes, ointments, and embalming preparations. It may have been too precious, at least in the Middle East and Europe, to toss in the stewpot. Even the Roman epicure Apicius, who denied himself few pleasures of the table, mentions cinnamon only in a recipe for cinnamon-leaf-flavored wine. By the Middle Ages, however, cinnamon, cassia, or both were being called for in as many as two-thirds of Middle Eastern and European recipes, to judge from cookery manuscripts that survive.

Cinnamon’s value has made it a frequent political football. The search for cheaper sources of cinnamon was a driv­ing force that led to the discovery of the New World. Having ­located them, the strongest European powers first established a presence and then ruled ruthlessly to maintain a monopoly over the supply. The cinnamons have even figured in our own recent political struggles. During the 1950s and ’60s we embargoed Chinese cassia while we warred verbally with the country’s Communist leaders. Following the Vietnam war, we embargoed that nation’s cassia. Now, happily for world peace and our tables, relations with both countries have improved and we can buy both products.

In The Kitchen

In the United States, most grocery stores’ cinnamon is Indonesian. Latin-American markets stock flaky sticks of Ceylon cinnamon. Some Oriental markets carry Chinese and Saigon cinnamons. Several mail-order suppliers sell all four types.

Does it matter which kind you use? The sweet, delicate Ceylon cinnamon is superlative in fruit desserts and subtle creams, and the robust cassias hold their own better in a savory stew, but I find them both delicious and interchangeable in most dishes. Ground Indonesian cassias do not disperse well in liquid, however. Because cassias such as Saigon, which contain a lot of oil, are strongly flavored, start with half the quantity called for in a recipe and add more to taste.

Store whole and ground cinnamon and cassia as well as cinnamon oil and extract in a cool location in airtight containers. Choose glass containers as the oil, even in ground cinnamon, bleeds through plastic. Ground cinnamon will remain pungent for three months, the sticks for at least six. They’ll remain fresh twice as long if you store them in the freezer.

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