Vegetarian Holiday Fare: Pumpkin Ravioli
October/November 1993
By David Merrill
Serves 6 to 8
This dish looks striking: little nuggets filled with golden pumpkin, topped with creamy white sauce studded with toasted hazelnuts and streamers of bright green sorrel. For best results, prepare the dish in one continuous process, which may require 2 to 21/2 hours, depending on whether you make or buy the pasta and the pumpkin filling. However, ravioli and sauce can be made separately and refrigerated until assembly. The dish does require your undivided attention toward the end as you time the pasta, reduce the cream, and wilt the sorrel. The sauce must be ready the moment the pasta is cooked; otherwise, the ravioli will get cold, mushy, and sticky. The sorrel must not sit in the cream sauce long or it will turn gray and lose its delicate flavor.
Pasta
If you can’t find frozen pasta sheets or prefer to make your own, here’s a recipe that’s virtually foolproof. Herbs and spices compatible with the dish can be kneaded into the dough toward the end.
• 6 cups unbleached flour
• 6 large eggs
Heap the flour and make a well in it. Break the eggs into the well and beat them together with a fork. Stir them into the flour from the bottom of the well with the fork until the dough in the center is smooth and shiny. With your hands, gradually incorporate the flour from the outside of the well toward the center, kneading gently until the mass of dough comes together.
Knead the dough until it is smooth and resilient. You may need to add more flour, or you may not be able to incorporate all of the flour, depending on the humidity and the size of the eggs. If the dough is sticky or extremely pliable, knead more flour into it.
Divide the dough into three portions, cover them with plastic wrap or an overturned bowl, and allow to rest for at least 30 minutes.
Filling
• 1 medium pumpkin or large winter squash, halved and baked until soft (about 21/2 cups cooked)
• 2 large carrots, chopped and cooked until just soft
• 2 yellow onions, finely diced
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 2 teaspoons coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon mace
• 1/2 teaspoon allspice
• Pinch cardamom
• 1/2 pound unsalted butter
• 1/3 pound parmesan cheese, freshly grated
• 2 tablespoons maple syrup
• 1 large egg, lightly beaten
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1 1/2 pounds fresh pasta, in sheets