Flavor First: The Humble Cabbage

Enlarge Image Image Gallery Though not the prettiest plant in the garden, cabbage does beautiful things for our bodies.

Cabbage Extras:
• Herbs for Pottage
• Cauli Verdi recipe 

If we lived between 500 and 1500 a.d.—the Middle Ages or Medieval period—we would be very familiar with colewort, a leafy green plant widely cultivated throughout Europe. A lowly potherb (see Herbs for Pottage,), colewort was an essential part of every kitchen garden and working-class diet, yet was not counted in the household food tally that included spices, salt and meats.

Kale, cabbage, kohlrabi, cauliflower, broccoli and brussels sprouts—all Brassica oleracea species—are modern descendants of the ancient wild colewort. They belong to the brassica family, and are also sometimes considered cruciferous vegetables, so named for the plants’ cross-shaped (crucifer) flower petals. At least five centuries before Christ, colewort plants were cultivated by continually selecting and reseeding plants with the largest leaves, resulting in a large-leaved kale, B. oleracea acephala (roughly “vegetable garden cabbage without a head”).

When plants with a tight cluster of tender young leaves at the top of the stem were singled out, our modern cabbage, B. oleracea capitata (“vegetable garden cabbage with a head”), began to appear. Germans favored colewort plants with fat stems; these became kohlrabi, B. oleracea caulorapa (“vegetable garden cabbage-like-stem turnip”). Belgians selected plants with tightly packed leafy buds along the main stem, and these became brussels sprouts, B. oleracea gemmifera (“vegetable garden cabbage bearing gems”).

Growing and Using Cabbage

Of colewort’s many descendants, cabbage is the most productive (per square foot of garden space) and arguably the most versatile, earning it a spot in every kitchen garden. Cabbage thrives in fertile, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 and cool growing conditions, such as in spring or fall. For an early crop, sow seeds of an early-maturing variety indoors in flats, about 10 to 12 weeks before your last expected spring frost. When seedlings have several leaves and daytime temperatures reach 50 degrees, plant them outdoors, a bit deeper than they grew in their flats. The heads will be ready to harvest about two months later.

When buying cabbage at the market, select firm heads with loose outer leaves; the heads should feel heavy for their size. Older cabbage often lacks outer “wrapper” leaves and is pale in color.