A HARVEST BANQUET

By LUCINDA HUTSON

AUTUMN FEASTS celebrate the herbal harvest in all its bounty. My Texas garden bursts with color at this time of year—scarlet spikes of pineapple sage, brilliant golden mint marigold, silver sages, and verdant stands of Italian parsley and chives, rosemary, and mints are at hand for seasoning, garnishing, and creating exquisite table bouquets. Serving glorious meals for friends is my way of giving thanks for my garden before its winter respite.

This feast celebrating The Herb Companion’s tenth anniversary could just as well serve as a memorable Thanksgiving dinner with a southwestern flair. From the moment your guests arrive, they’ll know this is no ordinary meal.

Begin with a savory cheese ball rolled in chopped cilantro and surrounded by crisp fruit slices and crackers. Then serve individual salads of seasonal greens and fennel bulb in a zesty Dijon mustard and paprika vinaigrette topped with a baked mushroom cap mounded with piquant blue cheese filling.

Bring the roast turkey to the table with a flourish—on a platter wreathed in herbs and autumn flowers and fruits—and don’t be surprised if you’re greeted with applause. Rubbed with spices and stuffed with handfuls of aromatic herbs, apples, and oranges, this bird is moist and succulent.

Mexican mint marigold offers a spicy anise flavor to a hearty cornbread stuffing while cilantro, serrano chiles, and marmalade add sparkle to Ruby Red Cranberry Relish. Sherry, smoky chipotles, roasted garlic, and sage strut their stuff against the gentle flavor and comforting texture of baked sweet potatoes. For crunch and contrast, add fresh green beans tied in bundles and steamed with sprigs of lemon thyme, braised Brussels sprouts, or lightly steamed broccoli to the array of aromatic dishes.

Prepare some of these dishes in advance for convenience; make others ahead to let their flavors marry. Give yourself time to relax and enjoy your guests and your late-season garden. You’ll say grace for its bounty.

RECIPES

Festive Fall
Cheese Ball

Serves 12 as an appetizer

Curry powder and crystallized ginger give an exotic flavor to this cheese ball rolled in fresh cilantro. Prepare it a day or two in advance to allow the flavors to mingle, and serve it on a plate surrounded by crisp pear and apple slices and sesame crackers. Sometimes I spoon Ruby Red Cranberry Relish (see page 30) on top of the cheese ball.

16 ounces extra-sharp cheddar cheese, grated
8 ounces cream cheese, softened
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons chopped crystallized ginger
1 bunch green onions with some green tops, chopped
1 tablespoon hot curry powder
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper or more to taste
2 teaspoons paprika
3 tablespoons medium-dry sherry
1 bunch cilantro, finely chopped
Seeds of 1 pomegranate (optional)

Process all the ingredients except the cilantro and pomegranate seeds in a food processor until blended. Turn out onto plastic wrap, cover, and refrigerate overnight. When firm, form into a ball and roll in the chopped cilantro. Stud generously with pomegranate seeds if desired. Serve immediately, or rewrap with plastic wrap and keep in the refrigerator until about 20 minutes before serving.

Fennel-Arugula Salad with Baked
Mushrooms

Serves 12

Warm mushroom caps with blue cheese filling are an elegant and unexpected element in this festive salad. You may prepare the filling, minus the bread crumbs, a day in advance.

12 large mushrooms
1 bunch green onions with some green tops, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme leaves
6 ounces blue cheese, crumbled
Feathery leaves of 2 bulbs fennel, chopped
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup dry bread crumbs
Olive oil
12 cups mixed crisp greens such as arugula, frisée, escarole, and red romaine
2 bulbs fennel (about 3/4 pounds each), trimmed and chopped
4 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
4 tablespoons chopped green onions
2 tablespoons fennel leaves
1 tablespoon thyme leaves
1 red bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped

Vinaigrette

6 tablespoons white balsamic or wine ­vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Wipe the mushrooms with a damp cloth. Remove the stems from the caps and chop coarsely; reserve the caps. Briefly sauté the green onions and garlic in the olive oil, stirring. Add the mushroom stems, fennel seeds, and thyme, and continue to sauté until soft. Remove from the heat and let cool. Stir in the cheese, chopped fennel leaves, lemon juice, salt and pepper, and bread crumbs.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Stuff the reserved mushroom caps loosely with the cheese filling, mounding slightly, and place them in a shallow pan. (If not serving within 15 minutes, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.) Drizzle lightly with olive oil and bake for 10 minutes, or until lightly browned.

Place a handful of greens on each chilled salad plate. Mound the chopped fennel bulb on the greens. In a small bowl, combine all the ingredients for the vinaigrette except the olive oil, then whisk in the oil. Drizzle each salad with vinaigrette. Place a warm mushroom cap in the center and sprinkle with the parsley, green onions, fennel leaves, thyme, and red bell pepper.

Sherried Sweet
Potatoes with Chipotles and Sage

Serves 12

No marshmallows in these sweet potatoes, which blend the spirited flavors of incendiary chipotle chiles, sherry, fresh sage, and sweet roasted garlic (I often use elephant garlic). Use less of the chipotles if you can’t stand the heat! Prepare this dish a day or two in advance to allow the flavors to mellow.

4 large sweet potatoes (about 1 pound each), scrubbed
1 to 2 heads garlic, cloves separated
Olive oil
1/3 of a 7-ounce can chipotle chiles in adobo sauce, or to taste (reserve the rest for another use), chopped
2 to 3 tablespoons dark brown sugar
4 tablespoons medium-dry sherry
4 tablespoons butter, softened
2 tablespoons minced fresh sage
1 bunch green onions with some green tops, chopped
1/2 cup or more shredded Parmesan cheese
Salt to taste
Fresh sage sprigs for garnish

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the sweet potatoes and garlic in a roasting pan. Drizzle the garlic lightly with olive oil. Roast, turning occasionally, for 45 minutes, or until the sweet potatoes are tender. As the garlic may take less time to cook, check it periodically and remove it as soon as it begins to soften and brown.

Reduce the heat to 350°F. Peel the roasted garlic and place in a small bowl with the chipotles, brown sugar, and sherry; blend lightly with a fork.

Peel the sweet potatoes and mash them lightly with the butter. Stir in the garlic mixture along with the sage, green onions, Parmesan cheese, and salt. Turn the mixture into a buttered 2-quart casserole and cover. Bake for 30 minutes, or until golden. Serve garnished with fresh sage sprigs.

Bring the roast turkey to the table with a flourish—on a platter wreathed in herbs and autumn flowers and fruits.

Ruby Red
Cranberry Relish

Makes about 3 cups

Fresh and dried cranberries give color and texture to this flavorful relish sweetened with bitter orange marmalade and seasoned with fiery serrano chiles and cinnamon. It’s a perfect match for all kinds of roasts and is especially delicious in a sandwich with the Festive Fall Cheese Ball and leftover turkey. Make it a day or two in advance.

1 cup bitter orange marmalade
Juice of 1 orange
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
6 ounces dried cranberries
1 cup water
12 ounces fresh or frozen cranberries
3/4 cup finely chopped red onion
3 serrano peppers, seeded and finely chopped
1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons tequila (optional)
Salt to taste

Heat the marmalade, orange juice, and cinnamon on low heat, stirring, until the marmalade melts. Off heat, stir in the dried cranberries and set aside. Meanwhile, boil the water, add the fresh or frozen cranberries, and cook until they begin to pop. Immediately drain the berries, rinse them with cold water, and chop them roughly.

Add these cranberries to the marmalade mixture and toss with the onion, serranos, cilantro, lime juice, optional tequila, and salt. Chill for several hours or up to several days before serving.

Cornbread Dressing with Fruits, Nuts, and Mint Marigold

Serves 12

This cornbread dressing, filled with sweet and savory surprises, is baked separately and served as a side dish.

1 cup dried apricots
1/2 cup dried figs or prunes
1/4 cup dried cranberries
1/2 cup brandy or orange juice
1/8 teaspoon cloves
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon whole allspice berries
1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1/4 teaspoon crushed dried red pepper
2 onions, chopped
4 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ­ginger
2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and chopped
1 large red bell pepper, chopped, about 11/2 cups
2 cups chopped celery
3/4 cup chopped Italian parsley
2 tablespoons chopped Mexican mint marigold
3/4 cup toasted pecans
6 cups crumbled day-old homemade cornbread, dried in the oven, or 2 packages dried cornbread stuffing mix
2 cups or more Giblet Broth (see page 27) or chicken or vegetable broth
Salt to taste
2 to 3 tablespoons melted butter (optional)
1 to 2 well-beaten eggs (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Roughly chop the dried fruits; soak them in the brandy or orange juice, tossing occasionally. Grind together the next five ingredients in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle.

Sauté the onions in butter, stirring, until nearly translucent; add the ginger, peppers, and celery, and sauté until softened. Combine with the fruit and soaking liquid, herbs, pecans, cornbread or stuffing mix, ground spices, 1 cup of broth, and salt, mixing gently. Stir in the optional melted butter and/or eggs; do not overmix.

Transfer the mixture to a buttered 9-by-12-inch baking dish and drizzle with enough of the remaining broth to moisten evenly. Cover and bake for 30 minutes, then uncover and bake 5 minutes longer. (If you’re cooking this in the oven with the turkey, bake it for 40 minutes at 325°F.)

Lucinda Hutson is an herb gardener, chef, and author of The Herb Garden Cookbook, 2nd edition (Gulf, 1998). She lives in Austin, Texas.